2025 Cycling Tour Italy & France

CONCEPT

Time for a new self-arranged, self-guided tour in August 2025.
Differently from our last three long-distance tours, which we shared with friends, it's going to be a throwback to just the two of us. We'll surely miss some good company.
Team of two then: Deb and myself (Ant).

WHERE?

Why not neighboring France? From home in Torino to our other home in Nice? Deal!
The subtle difference from all of our past tours is that we're leaving straight from home. We won't complete a loop either. We could, as it would take a couple more stages, and we have sufficient days at disposal, but the route options on heavy-traffic roads back to Torino wouldn't be sufficiently safe or pleasant. Train? Nope. A real pity.
The plan is then to end in Nice.
Aside from the Eurovelo 8 (EV8) not being entirely locally developed, the official cycleway information for the French-Italian area suggests to board the "Treno delle Meraviglie" ("Train des Merveilles" in French) that connects Ventimiglia to Limone Piemonte through the beautiful Roya Valley.
Which would be a pleasant hop through the enchanting Valle Roja (Roya in French) but - technically - hardly realistically feasible due to railroad troubles, cancellations due to frequent strikes by the French personnel and, above all, uncertainty of available space for bikes aboard.
Being native and residents of the area we are well aware of such inconveniences so, despite the official EV8 suggestion, we strongly discourage users from pursuing the Ventimiglia-Limone train option - at least during peak summer months.
Passing the Colle di Tenda via the "50-switchbacks Road" (not the French D6204 and Italian SS20 which go though the Tenda Tunnel) used to be possible but not anymore as it's only passable by authorized locals. This is due to the troubled tunnel road, which has partially reopened in late June 2025 - although with restrictions - after almost six years of discontinued works following its collapse due to a landslide on the French side right outside the tunnel.
There would be other train options, i.e. Ventimiglia-Savona-Torino, but space for bikes aboard isn't for granted.
Ending our ride in Nice is then the best option for peace of mind and, after a few days of relax, a bus will take us to Torino while the bikes will wait in the garage to be retrieved by car on the first future occasion.

Same dedicated touring bikes and setup used for the last two years' tours. Front suspensions, and suspended seatpost for Deb's bike. Very comfortable. Some may dissent with the flatbar but it's our preferred solution. The addition of small extensions inside the grips allows to change position from time to time, and extra padding on the grips avoids getting sore hands.
Old faithful saddle-type rear panniers with a small backpack on top, and quick-release handlebar bag. Easy on, easy off.
Total weight of each loaded bike, including extra water and food, of about 32 Kg (70 lb.).
The weight distribution is optimal for bike handling. No wobbling at any speed or uneven terrain. The panniers have a slight freedom of vertical movement which helps to reduce bouncing on potholes.

HOW?

Planning well in advance is half of the fun already, isn't it?
Plenty of literature and information available on the web including free mapping tools and tracks from various sources.
The route definition invariably aims at the safest possible options and my favorite references are the following:
- Cycle.travel (website) - for creation and download of tracks
- OpenCycleMap.org (website) - for final checking of the route
- VeloMap.org (downloadable maps for use with Garmin and other mapping software)
The final product is of course loaded to my GPS unit as the sole instrumental navigation device, then of primary importance. Should the device fail, the tracks could anyway be used by various phone applications as a backup system.

I combined GPX tracks sections of the Via Pedemontana and minor roads through Aosta and the Piccolo San Bernardo Pass, and north to Geneve, then mostly staying on the official Eurovelo 17 route (with detour to Aix-les-Bains) taking us along the Rhone river down to Beaucaire, then mostly Eurovelo 8 with a detour to the Canyon du Verdon.
As always, the length of each stage has been defined accordingly to accommodation/location availability, climbing effort, things to see along the way, and estimated duration to arrival time.
The most time-consuming task of the entire planning was searching/confirming all accommodations in advance, and making sure the venues do provide the essential condition of a safe overnight storage for the bikes.

Total estimated distance of 1400 Km and 8500 m of cumulative positive climb in 17 active stages, plus three "rest" days for other activities. The first in Aix-les-Bains to share some good time with Deb's long-time friend Cristelle, another in Lyon where Deb went to university, and one in Aiguines for a hike in the Canyon du Verdon area.
While the covered distance proved to be respected, the actual elevation gain exceeded the estimated figure by 2100 m.
Estimation of the elevation was obtained from the above mentioned Cycle.Travel website, an excellent free mapping tool which I typically use for planning, as it considers the safest possible routing. While planning, it returns DEM elevation data which are in most cases optimistic - although good for guidance - as the layout of roads/bridges may differ from the actual topography.
My old but quite reliable Garmin eTrex Vista HCx is always set to barometer mode for elevation data collection, and some post-processing "cleaning" of false or reflected points returns accurate profiles.

The map below illustrates the actual recorded track.

ROADBOOK

I don't keep a journal nor spend time at the end of each day to compile blog posts or live updates. The following information is a recollection of thoughts and post-processed data put togther after the conclusion of the journey.

NOTE:
This is for personal reference and, being public, it goes without saying [disclaimer] that the information herewith contained is for guidance only and is not sponsored by, of affiliated to, any organization

- Total 1378 Km (856 mi) and 10600 m (34,777 ft) of positive climb
- Of which: 207 Km in Italy, 34 Km through Switzerland, and 1137 Km in France
- 17 active stages plus three rest days
- Total moving time: 74h10m - Average speed 18.6 Km/h
- Longest stage: 130 Km
- Stage with the most climbing: 1200 m of positive gain
- All paved except for about 40 Km of total unpaved sections
- Extremely hot conditions
- No rain
- Considerate drivers everywhere - only a handful of inevitable idiots encountered

Stage 1 (Prologue) – Torino (I) to Forno Canavese – 43 Km, 568 m elev. +

Starting straight from home is a strange feeling as it's a novelty regarding a long-distance tour of ours.
We consider this initial stage a "Prologue" as it isn't something new. We are in fact reaching my (Ant) mother's house and have either Saturday or Sunday at disposal for it, with an eye to a clear sky, then chose Saturday (Aug 2) so to spend a full day with her before departing on Monday.
A convenient stop while heading north and a good occasion to enjoy some time together, do some minor helping chores - a bit of gardening and other small tasks. In other words, normal routine and a good time like on every occasion we visit her.
Being at higher elevation means that we have left behind part of the city's heat.
Our loaded bikes are in order from yesterday and awaiting. No need for GPS guidance today. Living in the northwestern part of Torino ensures a quick get-out heading north from the main urban sprawl and in no time we pass in front of the Reggia di Venaria where tourists line-up at the ticket counter. The route on minor roads is well-known and a cloudy sky provides easier temperatures. It seems it may soon rain but eventually only a little sprinkle catches us five kilometers before today's final destination. We feel it's only a quick thing and decide to pause for it to pass, opting to find shelter under the roof of the old market area in Rivara.
Time for a snack and it dries out, let's proceed to the final climb.

Stage 2 – Forno Canavese to Aosta – 109 Km, 1143 m elev. +

It was a relaxing Sunday. It didn't even seem like being on vacation but rather just having an average weekend. So here comes the excitement for the departure, although it really isn't because we've already done the first leg!
One among the longest stages, also with the most elevation gain stages, we reach the Aosta Valley region on sections of cycling paths and minor shared roads. Pause for a snack at the foot of the magnificent Fort of Bard. From here we follow sections of the Ciclovia Baltea (cycleway) next to the Dora Baltea river which keeps us mostly away from shared roads. The region has plenty of castles and the views on the surrounding mountains are quite rewarding.
Not as cool as one might expect when in the mountains, we enter the city of Aosta and I must take a pause and sit down in the shade of trees a mere 500 meters before our accommodation. I really must. Under the sun the humid heat is terrible and I feel dizzy, my blood pressure plunges to the point that I might collapse in the middle of motor traffic. Better safe than sorry, then ten/fifteen minutes are enough to get me up and going.
Our AirBnB is very close to the Arch of Augustus, unfortunately all covered up for restoration, and to the main shopping/strolling street. Clean and cozy place on ground floor, we are allowed to store the bikes inside the apartment. Shower, cleanup, and we're off for sightseeing. The main attraction is the imposing Porta Pretoria, built in 25 BC as the main access gate to the Roman walled city. Remnants of Roman walls, medieval buildings and pleasant squares are enriched by stunning mountains background.
A reserved table awaits for dinner at the B63 brewery. Of course we try their brews and, while the Jazz and the Reggae are interesting, we wouldn't recommend the Montebianco which includes apple as an ingredient. We thought it may remind of cider, which we love, but the glass has to remain unfinished.

Stage 3 – Aosta to Bellentre (F) – 79 Km, 830 m elev. +

We find our way to follow the Dora Baltea river but not for long. Upstream from Aosta, the valley is narrower and there is only one road - SS26 - other than the toll highway. No options then but to share SS26 with cars, trucks, campervans, and buses. Several points with road works make it worse. We're mostly uphill and can't be reasonably fast. A long bridge has single-lane alternate circulation regulated by a traffic light and a) it's unbearable to wait under a scorching sun; b) the lane is narrow and most vehicles don't have the patience to avoid passing us; c) we're slow uphill and the opposed traffic may hit the green light before we're through. Tunnels - three? Four? More? I don't remember - aren't desirable either. Longest was about one kilometer I guess. We have tail lights and we're keen to avoid swerving but one never knows who's behind. At some point we're being passed at high speed by a tractor (truck without trailer) at full throttle. Imagine hearing the loud humming noise in a tunnel and wondering what the hell is coming. Probably doing 100 Km/h, it could have sucked us under. It is the same vehicle which had passed us in the same manner some twenty minutes earlier. At least that was not in a tunnel. The driver had probably stopped for a coffee, then caught us again. Ten minutes after the tunnel occurrence we see it again, this time with a trailer loaded with logs, and of course pulling into the road without yielding to us. I could only see the driver, male in his 40s, without a chance to note the license plate number. I would have certainly reported this criminal-minded to the police.
At some point, on a straight stretch of SS26, the Monte Bianco (Montblanc) shows up right in front - see photo. Not worth the risks though, this is definitely the non-recommendable portion of the stage to other cyclists for the entire tour.
We anyway reach Pre'-Saint-Didier, which is the starting point of the Piccolo San Bernardo pass, where we stop to observe the high traffic going up. We know the road is narrow and, especially after the truck episode, we're not in the mood to share 22 Km at 5% average grade with plenty of cars and campervans. I have with me the reference of two private transportation companies and the first we call is available to take us up. We arrange the pick-up spot and the amiable driver shows up in ten minutes. He folds down the rear row of seats of the large van and helps loading the bikes without the front wheel. Bags et al, it's all safely stowed. This guy is a mountain bike and climbing guide and we have nice conversations for the whole 40-minute ride. Choosing to adapt to the circumstances means this isn't the Queen Stage of our tour then.
He drops us off at the pass where the wind is blowing. We hide from it behind a building to take out our warm clothes from the bags. There won't be other needs for warm clothes for the remainder of the journey! We note that there isn't much cross-traffic at the pass. Most vehicles do in fact take a day trip up there then go back down the same way. This, either on the Italian or the French side.
We're ready for over 30 Km of descent. It would normally be exhilarating without the wind but some sudden gusts are strong enough to encourage keeping speed at bay.
The French side of the pass has good pavement. The road isn't too narrow and plenty of cyclists seem to enjoy it. Nice panorama all the way to Bourg-Saint-Maurice where we find a dedicated cycleway along the Isere river. Our AirBnB accommodation is about 12 Km past this point and there won't be dinner options. We had then planned to buy sandwiches at a place right on the cycleway that we had read about. Open? Yes, but they finished all food at noon. A quick Google search returns the location of the nearest grocery in Landry, about 12 Km before our destination, requiring a small detour and climb. Cheese and other delicacies, bread, beer, apple juice.
Good to go for dinner at a table outside our perfect, quiet room in this small hamlet.

Stage 4 – Bellentre to Annecy – 97 Km, 513 m elev. +

If the last kilometer was a 7% climb to reach the accommodation last night, it means today we start with a short but refreshing plunge to meet the Tarantaise cycleway along the Isere and be in the woods for ten minutes. Before Moutiers we find the Tunnel du Siaix, actually the safety escape tunnel parallel to the road one, which doubles as a cycling/pedestrian feature with a length of approximately one and a half kilometers. From Moutiers our route veers to the north. Albertville, Ugine, then twenty Km to start seeing the waters of the Lake of Annecy. So far, no signs of cycling tourers until this point. To be honest, not even here. But at least it's full of bicycles on the 18-Km long lakeside multipurpose trail. This body of water is a popular tourist destination and we ride slowly and carefully along and among cycling and walking families until Annecy, a city literally packed with thousands. Our planned way to the hotel is a pedestrian street but too crowded for willing to push our bikes through, possibly requiring one hour of discomfort, so we take a steep 9% detour instead.
Centrally located, the hotel can keep our bikes in the luggage room but they offer us a spacious room for disabled with direct easy access from the street. Which is what we choose as we can simply push the loaded bicycles inside.
The quantity of tourists in town leaves us speechless. Charming place but this is too much! Back-to-back restaurants. We anyway decide to eat erlier than usual in order to find an available table in advance of hungy hordes.

Stage 5 – Annecy to Vulbens – 85 Km, 1121 m elev. +

Leaving Annecy at 7 AM gives us a totally different perspective as the city is nearly deserted.
Heading north is a series of ups-and-downs through farmland, tiny hamlets, and isolated houses. A scarcely populated area for about 40 Km despite its vicinity with Switzerland. Annemasse, still in France, is an eyesore as seen while descending to it. Probably not uglier than many other cities but the visual impact of its conglomerate makes one prefer more bucolic environments.
Cycling in town is anyway good. Dedicated lanes and a "Voie Verte", a converted ex-railway, extending into Switzerland without border control within the Schengen area. Aside from the different pavement, only a small sign warns that the border can be crossed if in possess of valid ID and requirements. Five kilometers and we're in Geneva on the shores of Lake Leman. It's a goal, not much for the obvious photo with the tall waterjet spouting from the lake, but because we reached the Eurovelo 17 (EV17) also named Via Rhôna. It goes primarily along the Rhone river starting from Thonon-les-Bains and ending by the Mediterranean Sea. Not our case, as we won't soak our feet in salty waters before Nice.
The Swiss experience leaves us with mixed feelings. One may think "OK, I'm in Switzerland so everything is perfect". After Geneva, the EV17 isn't as easy as one may expect. Partly on minor shared roads with plenty of ups-and-downs. Not dangerous but possibly a bit demanding to the less experienced cyclists. It's the Via Rhôna, no? It's Switzerland, no? Alright. Just before re-entering France, there's a short although questionable section of the EV17. Of course we followed it but why should one plunge down to a river then climb a 17% grade (max) rocky trail? For those interested, when in Chancy, rather stay on the Route de Valleiry which was safe even before abandoning it to follow the EV17. It anyway ends up in the same place, nevertheless named Valleiry. Which is where we stop at a large supermarket two kilometers prior to our accommodation in Vulbens. We knew there are no dining options in proximity so I buy a bagful of provisions while Deb waits outside.
The AirBnB is in a house and we don't find on-site, or have, any instructions. We hadn't received a phone number either. A bit puzzling until we hear voices from inside. Shouting "hallo?", a couple respond. They are guests too as the venue has several rooms. Good thing there is someone. They give us the jolly host's phone number which we call and says: "oh, I had forgot to send you the instructions!".
Anyway, no problem. From the kind French couple we get the door code and the bike locker's access code. Along with them we are the only occupants. The premises have three private guest rooms, shared bathroom, and fully equipped kitchen so we shove a couple of beers in the fridge for consumption after a shower. Time for some reading and relax at the kitchen's large table. I pull out my 12" laptop and the wifi works at decent speed. We indulge on our provisions - cheese, tuna salad, bread, nuts, fruit - meanwhile that the French couple are cooking pasta for dinner. Nice and talkative, they left Paris by train for Lausanne and will ride to Lyon, then back to Paris by train. She's Parisian, he's from the Pyrenees area. They report the EV17 being frustrating from Thonon to Geneva due to lots of road works and heavy trucks traffic. This, adding to our experience, lets us understand why many, as we read, opt to start the EV17 journey in Seyssel to skip the initial section.
The couple's next stage is to Chanaz where he will rent a road bike to climb the Col du Grand Colombier. Certinly a better option for the scope than his heavier touring bike. He's an avid cyclist and hiker so it's a pleasure showing him on my laptop some of the outdoors opportunities in our Piedmont region. He otherwise gives us advice on the Pyrenees. Nice conversations, nice people to share the evening with. This will prove the only occurrence for interaction with others for the entire journey.

Stage 6 – Vulbens to Aix-les-Bains – 80 Km, 545 m elev. +

Like most mornings, it's a 7-ish AM departure as we try to beat the heat for a few hours at least. It's been quite hot so far and the forecast isn't any better. Probably worse as all news warn of the upcoming "canicule", the "dog days". Which is worrisome.
The EV17 is good in France. Perfectly paved, it diverts from the course of the Rhone and provides highly appreciated shade up to Seyssel where it meets the river again. Hot it is, then a deserved pause by Seyssel's picturesque bridge is a good occasion for a snack and rehydration. On top of the panniers we normally carry a couple of extra liters each of water and/or apple juice which is a good source of electrolytes. Also a couple of dedicated bottles for mixing minerals powder, so to avoid the eventual formation of mold in the cage bottles which always contain water only. These require periodic refills from the extra bottles but the heat anyway forces us to pause often.
Chanaz is a cozy, quaint village and it's here that we abandon the EV17 by following the Canal de Savieres. It connects boat services to and from the Lac du Bourget.
It's Friday, as planned, so we can spend the night and "rest day" Saturday with Deb's long-time friend Christelle. She visits us in Torino occasionally and this time she's hosting us on the lakeside. Next get-together is already scheduled for mid-September!
We're early for meeting her so why not sit for a drink at a pub by Aix's harbor. We definitely need two things: shade, and a cold drink. Time approaching, it's a matter of a few kilometrs to Christelle's house for more cold drinks before heading out to her friend Robin's house. It's higher up the hill and the barbecue is waiting for a fun and a liiiiittle - not much though - cooler night. A couple of his frinds also join for the night while on their drive to the seaside from northern France.

"Rest day" doesn't really mean it. We had planned to hike with Christelle to the Croix du Nivolet (Nivolet's Cross) perched on the homonym summit at the elevation of 1547 m overlooking the city of Chambery. Easy hike, but the heat is something despite the higher elevation and being mainly in the woods. The panorama from the summit is gorgeous. The whole Lake Bourget, the Dent du Chat (Cat's Tooth) summit above the west side of the lake, which we had hiked in the past, and the city of Chambery. We're not alone up there but the large cross thankfully provides adequate shade for all.
The temperature nears 40C (over 100F) and I'm cooked, gasping for the car's air conditioning while returning to Aix. We then go out for a nice dinner at a lakeside restaurant and sitting outside isn't any better due to the lake's humidity. I go for a pizza (!!!) to be eaten when cold!
We survived another day and reckon that meteorologists weren't wrong. La canicule.

Stage 7 – Aix-les-Bains to Porcieu – 99 Km, 565 m elev. +

This morning we go around the lake's southern shore for the only climb of the day, max 7% to reach the Tunnel du Chat which, similarly to the Tunnel du Siaix in Stage 4, provides safe escape to the main road tunnel. Actually, no more climbing until Saint-Remy means 530 Km (330 mi) of predominantly flat terrain ahead. The descent takes us down to the Rhone where we rejoin the EV17 on which we'll remain up to Beaucaire. The EV17 diverges another time from the riverside and goes through Morestel for a handful of medieval sights. A couple of perched villages also please the eye on the way, but there is something usually unpleasant on top of the terrible heat. Headwind. But it's so hot that I've never been so happy to ride against a 30 Km/h wind. It's like having a hundred hairdiers pointed to the whole body but it seems to help tricking the brain.
Water and apple juice in any of our bottles are like hot tea but we *have* to drink. No fountains or bars in sight. I feel my car has better efficiency in Km/liter (or mpg), good thing we carry plenty of abominably hot fluids anyway.
Per aspera ad astra we reach our hotel, an isolated building with self check-in. It's either too hot to keep their reception open or they're all on vacation near the North Pole. Nobody around. The door is open and we find, among others, an envelope with our name on it containing the key and instructions. Our room in a detached small building is nice although the only truly important piece of equipment to me is the air conditioner. There is only one eatery nearby and is 2 Km ahead but getting *out there* again is simply out of question. The bikes are safely stored in the garage and eating our provisions in the quenched room is a possible example of the concept of paradise.

Stage 8 – Porcieu to Lyon – 85 Km, 368 m elev. +

The problem, at least with the current climate, is that most of the EV17 isn't shaded. We deal with another day well above 40C (104F) although it's certainly much hotter on the black asphalt of the cycleway. It feels more like 50C (122F) as I recall a few visits to Nevada and Arizona, USA, and Andalusia in Spain where it can be deadly. Here, the heat index might be even worse due to the high levels of relative humidity. Incredible. A possible preview of my eternal afterlife in hell?
We try to anticipate the usual start time and find a faint headwind. Steady, slow pace in between frequent stops has us reach Lyon around 1:30 PM. After midday we couldn't pedal for more than ten kilometers between stops.
Not much shade but plenty of ripe blackberries along the way. Not only an occasion to pause for snacks, but in the morning I have collected more than 200 fruits that will provide nutrients and vitamins for the entire day.
Approaching Lyon we ride inside the Grand Parc which is claimed to be one among the largest urban parcs in Europe. Trees, meadows, and a few lakes/ponds. I assume this park would normally teem with enthusiasts during weekends but it's Monday and it's almost deserted. Further ahead we enter the city proper in its northern boroughs. There are several cycling paths and we follow a smooth, unpaved one along the river which takes us straight to the Tête d'Or (Golden Head) park where we use a bench for a long pause. It's too early for checking in at the hotel which is only 4 Km further down the river. We pass by a large crowded swimming pool and a few permanently docked boats converted into restaurants and music bars.
The extensive urban network of dedicated cycling lanes is impressive and quite efficient. We try our luck and at 2:30 PM our room is already available. The B&B Hotel is a bike-friendly chain and the location we chose - there are two or three others in town - has an underground garage.
Two nights reserved for another "rest day". Deb went to university in Lyon just a few blocks away. The city has much changed since, she reports while impatient to check it out. It's early afternoon and of course we're eager to walk around, so we get out for another dose of horrific heat. C'est la canicule, n'est-ce pas? We're east of the Rhone and it takes a good dose of courage to cross the University Bridge under the sun. The wide river means a long bridge. The temperature is well above 40C and remains tropical even at night, therefore I highly praise the air conditioning unit in our room.
The "rest day" is a good occasion to hike up the hill to the landmark Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourviere and the Roman archeological site. Throw in some strolling in the city center et voila, it's a 20-Km walk for the day.
Deb is quite happy to visit the lively city that sparks her memories. It's semi-desert and the majority of stores and restaurants are closed for vacation. It reminds me of Torino until the '80s when, during the yearly 4-week closure of FIAT, the city appeared as in a post-nuclear scenario.
A welcoming pub on the main shopping street has a good selection of drafts and we visit it twice, then ending up dining at an Asian place downtown. With scarce options, the second night we also opt for Asian food around the corner from the hotel.

Stage 9 – Lyon to Valence – 130 Km, 454 m elev. +

We intend to leave at 6,30 AM and last night we learned that the reception operates 24h so no problem, the clerc opens the garage door on request.
The city is still dormant and a couple of dedicated cycling/pedestrian bridges let us easily overcome the confluence where the Saône merges into the Rhône.
The official EV17 literature mentions that the section between Lyon and Givors is not "fully developed", recommending to cover it by train as it could prove inadequate and unsafe to the less esperienced riders. Although doable, we can confirm that it wouldn't prove a piece of cake to many. A bit uneasy to navigate. Sometimes the lane is on the opposite side of the road and uneasy to be spotted, some stretches do share the road, at times wondering if it would be better to ride on the sidewalk (curb) but it might not be allowed. Not the best if with kids in tow, or with trailers. If in doubt, rather take the train as suggested for peace of mind.
Five kilometers before Givors, a detour for road works requires to take a "bump" with climb at 9% max grade and subsequent descent.
The last couple of kilometers to Givors are on very rough rocky terrain before a bridge. Past the bridge we pause and here we meet a couple with panniers. We haven't seen any in a long time. They are Swiss heading home. We advise to take a short stretch of road instead of the rocky section, and inform on the unexpected upcoming "bump".
We have a pause right across from Vienne and could take the bridge for a quick visit but it's sizzling hot to enjoy anything. Drink, breathe. I keep pouring water on my shoulders and arms until it quickly dries then repeat. Obnoxious broth.
Longest in this tour, the stage runs for a good portion of its length on the right bank (west) of the Rhone in the Department of Ardeche which didn't seem to want, or didn't have, as much funding to spend on the Via Rhôna as other departments. The type of asphalt used is coarser - and lighter in color, definitely a different grit substance used - and bumpy with ripples. Not just an impression. The opposite bank, in the Drôme Department, has the typical smooth surface found everywhere else on the EV17 with only occasional sets of tree roots causing cross bumps. Regardless of the surface quality it is appreciable that France has invested in such a costly project. I'm only saying that I personally prefer gravel roads to the annoying low-frequency vibrations caused by the ripples of the Ardeche pavement.
Torture day again with almost no shade and the temperature doesn't cooperate. Light headwind. The Rhone valley has a predominant northerly wind with some exceptions. We've been monitoring the conditions daily and it was always blowing south at 15-30 Km/h values but not today. It blows north at 10-15 Km/h which is at any rate acceptable even on a long stage.
Not much to see, and a bit boring too. Alright, we wanted to ride the Via Rhôna as an overall journey but so far, as a note, riverside lovers would rather appreciate more the placid Danube in Austria (Donauradweg) and Hungary or, better, the German Mosel between the French border and Koblenz. Even further down the Rhine. For the views, the shade, drinking water spots, and density of villages and services. As mentioned before, we carry plenty of water for the whole day as we can't find it at will, feeling we're in expedition mode rather than in a developed country.
Every day the GPS leads us to the booked accommodation point. I don't use it in navigation mode as I prefer practical visual guidance. All the intended routes are accurately prepared beforehand and displayed as a colored line on the map which I keep with the north pointing up and zoomable at will. In case of forced or desired detours I can easily find/choose the way on the map. Placing the unit on top of the handlebar bag is ideal as the forward location doesn't require head movements for reading under almost every light condition without backlight.
The AirBnB is the pedestrian area right next to the Pendentif, a bizarre funerary monument erected in the 16th century behind the cathedral. Valence is another city of Roman origin and doesn't attract many tourists, then good for relaxed strolling. Other than peculiar monuments or buildings, the pedestrian center of simililarly sized French cities isn't much different from town to town. Houses, pavement, materials used, the bakery, the souvenir store. What can change is the general cleanliness of the streets and the buildings, generally acceptable everywhere.
We learn that there's a lights show tonight. Art video and images projected on the cathedral's facade and accompanied by music. This sort of entertainment has been popular as of late and we enjoy it after dinner along with a limited audience.
Our apartment is cozy, quiet, and air-conditioned to ensure a good night of sleep.

Stage 10 – Valence to Montelimar – 74 Km, 267 m elev. +

Shorter stage today. When planning, of course we don't have to cover a daily minimum distance. Our tours don't focus on performnce goals or speed records. The essence of cycle touring is for us the opportunity to travel unpretentiously at slow pace, enjoy the surroundings and the sights, and savor the varied local character. A travel mode, not an achievement. Rarely an adventure. Thus far we've always toured in safe civilized developed countries. Always something new to be learned.
So far the weather has been sunny and roasting hot, and today isn't any different. Light headwind again and another dose of Ardeche's rippled pavement.
The orography changes progressively from flat to increasingly noticeable reliefs of volcanic origin. Spent in ancient eras, of course. Here and there we see ruins of castles perched on hilltops as well as Rochemaure. It would be nice to visit but, wait, we're already suffering on flat terrain. Nope. It's on the western bank of a Rhone branch and here is the Pont de Rochemaure (Old Bridge), also called the Rochemaure "Himalayan" (suspended) bridge. Part of the EV17, it's for cyclists and pedestrians only. High, and 380 meters long. Not much wide. Riding on it is an exciting experience and I go first. Although slightly wobbling I manage to fight the gusty sidewind and stop at the middle tower awaiting Deb. She decides to walk the bike because of the wind as suggested by a pictogram displayed on a plaque. Wind can surely be a decisive factor. We then proceed in the same order for the second final section to reach solid ground.
From this point it would be only 3 Km to destination but it's a shared road that includes a bridge. Deb is happier to follow the EV17 route instead and we take it although I wish we didn't. It meant 12 Km, nine of which done in unbearable no-shade conditions at 1 PM. South along the river to take a different bridge, ironically also with shared-traffic, then back north on the other bank for some 15 minutes of pure agony.
By the time we reach the hotel I'm destroyed and can't even talk. Luckily there's a garden in the courtyard around the corner from the entrance where I wait while Deb checks in. The kind clerk attends a few customers then comes by to take care of the bikes. He stowes them in a locker room with racks and I try to help but no, access is for employees only. The small Art Nouveau building is cute and my last effort for the day is to carry the bags up the third floor as there's no elevator.
I badly need a beer. Or two.

Stage 11 – Montelimar to Avignon – 107 Km, 270 m elev. +

The air has a different smell. A bit salty? Iodine?
Sunflower fields for a change of landscape. I can't conceive how it's possible that the climate isn't giving a break. The bluest of skies, scorching sun, humid, and over 40C. Was it the brutal heat the cuplrit for Van Gogh's madness? Both of my ears are still in their place, so there's hope.
Passing Pont-Saint-Esprit I recall having enjoyed the Ardeche river by kayak on three occasions. Several rental companies in Pont take customers to Vallon-Pont-d'Arc by bus with a trailer for kayaks and canoes. Waterproof barrels are also supplied for personal items and food. From here it's a typical two-day descent down to Pont. Forget whitewaters, it's a relaxed journey also for familes in the beautiful, wild gorge. The water is shallow for most of it as the level is regulated by an upstream dam. An overnight area is located at midway approximately and tents can be put up for free. It's fun to share the experience with a group of friends. One of mine had the genius idea to tether and tow some beer cans but he tied them by the opening ring, then later finding them cracked open and obviously filled with water.
Orange has a beautiful, large Roman theater. Admission fee. We're not keen to leave the bikes unattended so it will wait.
The EV17 is a perfect two-lane until Avignon. The bridge over the Bras Mort de la Barthelasse is a costly piece of engineering just for bikes.
Avignon shows up from a distance and we slowly ride around the western/southern wall until the nearest gate to our stay. It's a clean, essential residence probably used as housing for university students during school months. Bike room and courtyard. I take the time to replace Deb's rear brake pads but one piston doesn't retract all the way, so I only fit one pad and will repeat the task when time will come.
We hadn't seen crowds since Annecy. The city is full of tourists although its wider streets don't make it as much oppressing.
The Palais des Papes (Popes' Palace) is the obvius highlight where most people congregate. A magnificent gothic complex which housed the pontiff and antipopes from 1309 to 1403. Another attraction is the Pont d'Avignon, never completed and what's left of it, built in the 12th century. Probably famous for it's mentioned in a popular children's song. I hardly understand the reason why visitors pay a tourist-trap admission fee when the bridge is best viewed from the side for free.

Stage 12 – Avignon to Saint-Remy – 60 Km, 262 m elev. +

We now have a series of shorter stages. This one is anyway shortened by about 10 Km as we don't crave for more torture by climbing to picturesque Les Baux, therefore we abort the short but steep detour.
In Beaucaire we kiss the EV17 goodbye in favor of the EV8, La Route de la Mediterranee. Crossing the Rhone into Tarascon we're in the PACA (Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur) region which is where we pay tax, so let's see if our money is being put to good use.
This is also the course of the Via Domitia, one of the ancient Roman roads connecting our city Torino to Spain. The modern Via Domitia is a hiking trail from Piedmont to the Pyrenees range.
The Alpilles are in sight. An isolated limestone mini mountain range oriented East-West and only 25 Km in length. Somehow unexpected and yielding pleasant views.
Reaching town before 2 PM we stop by the tourist office just for browsing. Not that we need it but they don't have any brochure regarding the EV8. There are no customers and we indulge in general conversations with the amiable lady at the counter. We have to kill time before the AirBnB's check-in time. Another enjoyable apartment in the city center.
It's Saturday and there's the "Feria", a 5-day event focusing on local traditions. We witness heavy protection fences being erected to form a circuit and we learn it's to provide safety for a bull run. Also, we learn that the show is being delayed because, for their well-being, it's too hot to transport the animals to the site. Horsemen, the Camargue "cowboys" will guide - or chase - the bulls through town. We understand that no animal is being abused or hurt but we reckon it's an unnecessary stress. Whatever it is, we sit at a table for a drink and also make a reservation for dinner at the same venue. The restaurant has a quiet elevated terrace from where we spot horsemen go back and forth. Maybe the highlights of the show are in a different area. We're anyway not interested in anything involving the exploitation of animals.

Stage 13 – Saint-Remy to Apt – 39 Km, 309 m elev. +

Lavender has been harvested already and what those large fields would look in full bloom is left to our imagination as well as the fragrance.
Passing Cavaillon reminds that a distant relative had emigrated here nearly a century ago in search of a better life.
We're on a "Voie Verte" the whole time and yes, our tax money proves to be well spent! Very, very good and we don't feel the minimal uphill grade. Long shaded sections are a welcome surprise. Vive la EV8! It might be early to judge but this is more enjoyable than the EV17.
Pont Julien, a Roman feature, proudly stands across the Calavon since pre-Christian era on the Via Domitia. The river is totally dry at the moment.
The leave-early-arrive-early strategy pays off. The temperature has slightly decreased and lets us put a grin on our faces from time to time. The early arrival allows to lay our buttocks on a bench in a park right across from the hotel. Aptly located - deliberate pun here. Time to consume the cold drinks and provisions we just bought at a supermarket. I'm biting straight into a good-sized round of coulommiers cheese. Life is good and an occasion to check the prosperous foreign trees in the park. Labels indicate their origin from various parts of the world. A small pond is fed by a tiny stream and this is a perfect place to relax while Deb reads a chapter of a book.
Apt is, I'd say, totally outside of the tourism circuit. Not a fancy town albeit not bad either. We can almost touch the clock tower from our window and hope it doesn't have a bell, or that it's muted at night!

Stage 14 – Apt to Greoux-les-Bains – 56 Km, 846 m elev. +

The flat terrain is soon to be left behind and today we climb a rollercoaster towards the Verdon. About one hour into the ride we abandon the EV8 and take the D4100 road to Manosque which has a charming center. The town's coat of arms has four hand palms and a bronze plaque is embedded on the ground under the old access gate.
The shared road has a dotted line on the right to grant reasonable space to bicycles. The tarmac is smooth and flawless. Past the Durance river it's uphill again at max 10% grade before landing on the small romantic town of Greoux. Hardly heard of before, it's a pleasant discovery. Its vicinity to the artificial Lac d'Esparron, formed by a dam on the Verdon, might be what drags people here for water sports and other outdoor activities. "Les Bains" typically refers to a spa location and there are at least a couple of these in town.
Prior to reach our accommodation situated one kilometer further down and downhill, let's check what the town center has to offer because we'll later walk here for dinner. Reading the posted menus of several eateries we find the perfect candidate also in terms of position. A little square receives more breeze than the narrow main street.
A small nearby grocery is a good source for the usual provisions.
For this entire journey, as well as our past tours, we opted for AirBnBs versus hotels as much as possible if and where available. These don't have breakfast options and it's then necessary to have our own food. Something with us for next lunch is also a must as we don't rely on energy bars or processed snacks.
There are two kinds of food. For emergency, should we go "bonk" out of fuel, we always carry a few gels and various energy bars as an intgral part of the travel kit. I normally keep these in the tools-and-spares section of one pannier and they typically make their way back home untouched. We have enough room on board for consistent daily shopping. Of course buying stuff right away is best to avoid carrying extra weight for the whole day, or next day. The extra weight doesn't really matter much. Better buy what needed when we find open stores/groceries, wary of closure days and operating hours. Leaving early in the morning means that stores are still closed so, in most cases, food for breakast is already with us from the previous day. Something that doesn't necessarily need refrigeration. Bread, cheese (depending on type), jam, cookies, milk, pain au lait or brioche, at times a couple of beers for the after-dinner in our room.

Stage 15 – Greoux-les-Bains to Aiguines – 53 Km, 903 m elev. +

The departmental roads D952 and D111 don't pose safety concerns and traffic is scarce. Reaching Aiguines requires to go around the Lac de Sainte-Croix and we have two options: south of it, or north. We choose the latter through the Plateau de Valensole which is renowned for its lavender fields. Already harvested, it's a pleasant view anyway as well as the one to our right. We're on the edge of the plateau overlooking the lake some 400 m of elevation below.
The lake is artifical, dammed, and is a popular tourist attraction. From the plateau we plunge to the point where the Verdon enters the lake. It's a magnificent gorge enjoyed by tens - or hundreds - of small rental vessels of various sort afloat the cerulean water.
The nearby parking is full to the brim. Spectacular spot albeit a bit congested and we're happy to proceed to the quietness of Aiguines while enjoyng the lake views. They become progressively agreeable while climbing the six kilometers at 5% steady grade with near-zero traffic.
We had been here many years ago on a motorcycle trip and understand why we saw many in the area. No bicyles though other than ours.
It's a bizarre coincidence that, when turning my laptop on, the daily random image proposed by Microsoft is the Plateau de Valensole. Just that, and just today.
Our AirBnB is reserved for two nights for our third and last "rest day". Our intention is to hike the Grand Marges summit, or the canyon bottom - if transport is available - but the weather is not cooperating and it's real rest for us. It rains less than forecast as the expected thunderstorms have veered a few kilometers to the north. It's anyway curious that the only wet day occurs when we're not pedaling. The apartment is quiet and funcitonal and the bikes are in the garage along with all sort of the hosts' dusty paraphernalia.
A good two-day stay overall.

Stage 16 – Aiguines to Tourrettes – 80 Km, 1196 m elev. +

Of the whole journey, this is the stage with the most elevation gain. It will also turn out to be the most interesting and rewarding.
The day starts with 6 Km at 7-8% grade to top an altitude in excess of 1200 m. The D71 road on this south rim is deserted in the early morning.
The popular route is otherwise the D23 "Route des Crêtes" which is on the other side (north rim). A classic loop enjoyed by motorcyclists includes the D71 on which we're on but they're probably still sleeping at this early time.
After the top point the views over the Canyon du Verdon become breathtaking and we ride slowly to enjoy to the fullest. The natural show goes silently on for the next 15 kilometers to where the Artuby joins the Verdon as this makes a bend to the north. This is another enchanting gorge crossed by the high Pont de l'Artuby. I recall it as a bungee jumping spot but it's not anymore.
Years ago we had hiked the canyon bottom trail "Sentier Blanc-Martel" and it was a fascinating experience.
Our route proceeds with ups-and-downs. In Comps we take the D955 and D19 to Bergemon where we rejoin the EV8 which will take us all the way to Nice.
We climb to Fayence and check restaurants and stores in towm before the last remaining kilometer needed to reach the AirBnB in nearby Tourrettes.
The apartment is on ground floor and the host agreed to let us put the bicycles inside. Plenty of room, the full apartment is delightful and cozy. Stone walls in the interior speak for a great ambience and the decorations reflect a good taste. Great place to be kept in mind for possible future occasions.
After setting in we walk back to a supermarket in Fayence to buy food for dinner. We could dine out but it's Thursday and we don't want to miss the presentation of the Vuelta a España live from our city Torino. It's not broadcast on TV so we rely on my laptop for websites with live feed. The Spanish race has never started from Italy before and Piedmont was chosen to host the first three stages. Great publicity to our land and an exciting occurrence. A slight pity not being at home for the occasion.

Stage 17 – Tourrettes to Nice – 82 Km, 467 m elev. +

Last stage: the homecoming.
Down to the EV8 the "Voie Verte" seems freshly done. The asphalt is covered with sand/grit and my front wheel loses grip. Once, twice, and more. Not safe. After all the distance covered we better avoid a crash on the way home. The EV8 runs, separated, parallel to the road and we decide for the road at the first possibility.
When I had prepared the route I noticed that the EV8 makes an odd scribble on the descent to Mandelieu. I then compiled the route by choosing a more direct way on a "chemin", typically unpaved roads, for a length of half a kilometer.
Now I understand the reason for the scribble. It's only 500 meters downhill but very rough with fist-size rocks. We could well dismount and walk the bikes for such a short distance but decide to stay on the saddle and go extremely slow. As experienced mountain bikers we're used to such terrain but the goal is to avoid breaking the rack or something else. The bikes are sturdy but a mechanical issue near home would be ironic.
The sea! Happiness turning into a nightmare in a blink of an eye. Mandelieu-La Napoule is impossible. It's a Friday in peak season and the single-lane coastal road is jammed. We're nevertheless stuck under the sun without any possibility to pass. The exhausts stink and, when moving, it's for 2-3 meters at a time. It's hot as hell. No. Let me rephrase. It is hell. Getting past La Croisette takes us 90 minutes to cover about 5 kilometers. Never again!
It gets better towards and until Antibes. Slow, but at least we're catching some air. We expected it an reason why, from Nice, we never ride westwards past Antibes.
Riding on top of the familiar old city ramparts with these loaded bikes is strange for once as we often come here with other bikes. We stop for a last pause by the port before the final stretch of the usual cycling path until home. Past the internatinal airport we take advantage of a free drinking water station dispenser and we fill all of our bottles with cold sparkling water. That's why Deb hears a loud "pop" sound and thinks it's a blown tire instead of the cage bottle. The bike counter in Nice is out of order so we don't know how many passed by today. The daily average over a year is four thousands of private and public bikes on the separate, dedicated two-way lane of the Promenade des Anglais.
On one hand, after the nightmare of Cannes, we're happy it's over. On the other, it's a little sad that the journey has reached the end. A common feeling upon the conclusion of every long-distance tour. Time flies and it seems we left Torino yesterday.
Little by little we'll ponder and reflect on the million pedal strokes that brought us here. Only upon the conclusion of every multi-day tour one realizes how much distance can be covered at ease with simple human-powered machines. One more under the belt!
The good side point is that the vacation isn't over as we'll spend a full week in Nice.
No alarm to be set for tomorrow morning!
The bikes will rest in our garage for retrieval upon the first occasion we'll drive here.

A bientôt!

CONCLUSIONS

No regrets. We enjoyed the journey. Would I repeat it as-is? No.
A bike tour is always a new experience although, personally, this one doesn't top the ranking of my favorites.
Excluding an interruption of about a decade from previous tours, this was our fourth consecutive long-distance summer journey after the Flanders, Austria/Czech Republic, and Austria/Slovenia.

I found the central section of the Via Rhôna a bit boring and least appealing. The long, flat part. Over 500 Km of flat, mostly unshaded and with brutal heat, scarcity of drinking water and services, do not keep up with other experiences of ours. Comparison is inevitable.
An excellent work though. Separated from roads and beautifully paved, I see it more of a fast "highway" for travelers in the north-south direction rather than a prime destination for pure tourism purposes. Who knows, should this have been my first tour ever, I might have enjoyed it. As mentioned earlier, for those aiming at a tour in Europe of, say, 300 to 600 Km total, there would be other more rewarding options elsewhere.
This said, hat off to France for investing consistently in the EV17 project. Safety is certainly the most important factor to any cyclist and, in such sense, the EV17 is recommendable to either the novice or the experienced. Families included.

It Italy, fine until Aosta after which safety is left in the hands of the drivers behind. Not everywhere but I will certainly not repeat this section unless something changes for the better.
This is the only section of the entire tour which I don't recommend to others.

Only a handful of bike tourers were spotted during the entire tour.
With one exception, no company or interaction with fellow riders.

Done with negativity. The positive aspects:
- Good pavement in general
- Careful drivers - with only one exception
- Satisfactory posted signs (better have a GPS track/route)
- Corteous clerks, waiters, officers
- Good accomodation (AirBnBs, hotels)
- Satisfactory choice of food
- No mechanical problems, no punctures
- No inconvenients, dropped bikes, or crashes
- No health issues, no sores. The muscles always worked well
- No rain

Thank you Deb for sharing another wonderful cycling journey!
What's next?

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The tracklog of the tour is available here:
https://www.wikiloc.com/bicycle-touring-trails/cycling-2025-cycling-tour-i-ch-f-228757788